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Peter Do Exits Helmut Lang: A Legacy Unfulfilled?
Ivy Vu
- Fashion Blogger -
"I want to express my gratitude to my Helmut Lang team who have been integral in supporting my vision,” said Do in a statement. “It’s been an incredible journey to be tasked to carry on the legacy of Helmut Lang.”
"I want to express my gratitude to my Helmut Lang team who have been integral in supporting my vision,” said Do in a statement. “It’s been an incredible journey to be tasked to carry on the legacy of Helmut Lang.”
Kazumi Yanai, the chairman of Helmut Lang, also expressed his gratitude for Do's contributions, saying:
“I want to express my deepest gratitude to Peter for his exceptional creative leadership and vision and wish him continued success in his future endeavors.”
A Look Back at Do's Brief Journey at Helmut Lang
Do joined Helmut Lang in March 2023 with the ambitious goal of revitalizing the brand, which had struggled to maintain its relevance since its founder's departure in 2005. Do's debut collection for Spring/Summer 2024 made a splash with its incorporation of Vietnamese-English poetry by Ocean Vuong, notably featuring a moving tribute to mothers worn by Vietnamese model Dahan Phuong Oanh.
Helmut Lang Spring/Summer 2024: A Daring Revision
Do's debut collection for Helmut Lang was a love letter to New York and an ode to the brand's past, with a unique collaborative twist. It was was a bold reimagining of the brand's heritage. He acknowledged Lang signatures — raw denim jeans, plain tank tops, shift dresses — while simultaneously introducing his own distinct touch.
The collection featured:
- Lang's staples reimagined in stark yellow as an homage to New York taxis
- Crisp black slacks and collarless leather bombers, showcasing Do's signature style
- Button-down shirts worn backward with poetic language by Ocean Vuong
- A graphic shirt that read "Helmut Lang Isn't Peter Do's Fault"
This collection garnered significant attention for its incorporation of Vietnamese-English poetry by Ocean Vuong. Models strode across a concrete floor painted with original text written by Vuong during the collection's September 8 launch event in New York. Lines like "Your car / was my first / room," "Our clothes / on the floor / like stepped-on / flowers" and "Con nhớ mẹ / nhiều lắm / con xin lỗi / con làm mẹ buồn," were amongst Vuong's poetic musings, some of which were also printed on the shirts.
Vuong, the acclaimed author of "On Earth We're Briefly Gorgeous" and "Time Is a Mother," also used the event to debut his photography. Some of his photos were printed on scarves given to attendees and used in promotional materials. This collaboration marked a powerful intersection of fashion, poetry, and photography, further amplifying the collection's impact.
Though, this daring approach, a blend of reverence and innovation, resulted in a mixed reception from critics and audiences.
"I think there’s a lot of expectations for the debut to be really big and grand," Do told Interview Magazine at the time. "It’s always going to be difficult to follow such a strong heritage such as Helmut Lang’s. A lot of people love the brand, so I don’t think that I can please everybody."
Despite the initial buzz, Do's subsequent collections failed to achieve significant commercial success. The brand even skipped the Spring/Summer 2025 season altogether, raising eyebrows within the industry. Just two months after New York Fashion Week, Do's exit was confirmed, leaving many to wonder what went wrong.
A History of Short-Lived Creative Directors
Do's departure is not entirely surprising, considering the brand's history of struggling to find a suitable successor to Helmut Lang himself. Since the founder's exit, a string of designers have attempted to fill his shoes, but none have managed to stay for more than three years.
Shayne Oliver, Mark Thomas, Thomas Cawson – all have tried and ultimately failed to recapture the magic of the original Helmut Lang. While Oliver's designs were praised for their alignment with the founder's artistic vision, Do's appointment generated the most excitement, given his rising star status and successful eponymous label.
The Weight of Expectations: A Difference in Visions
While the official statements surrounding Peter Do's departure from Helmut Lang express gratitude and well wishes, the underlying reason may lie in a divergence of creative visions. Do's debut collection, while showcasing his respect for the brand's heritage, also introduced a distinct personal touch. This blend of old and new may not have aligned with the long-term vision for Helmut Lang, ultimately leading to the parting of ways.
What's Next for Peter Do?
Do will continue to focus on his own label, which has gained a loyal following for its sophisticated and wearable designs infused with Vietnamese cultural influences. While his time at Helmut Lang may not have yielded the desired results, it undoubtedly provided invaluable experience and exposure.
As Peter Do moves forward, the fashion world will be watching with keen interest to see what he achieves next. Will he return to New York Fashion Week with renewed vigor, or will he chart a new course altogether? Only time will tell.
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