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The End of an Era: Hedi Slimane Departs Celine, Michael Rider Steps In
The End of an Era: Hedi Slimane Departs Celine, Michael Rider Steps In
HEIDI TRUONG
- Fashion Blogger -
Hedi Slimane exits Celine after seven transformative years as creative director. Michael Rider, a Phoebe Philo-era alum, takes over in 2024. Learn more about this creative shift at the iconic French fashion house.
Hedi Slimane’s departure from Celine marks the end of a transformative chapter for the iconic French fashion house. After nearly seven years of helming the brand and making bold changes that both energized and polarized the fashion world, Slimane has officially stepped down as artistic director. The announcement sent shockwaves through the fashion industry, and speculation about his next move is already underway. Interestingly, his successor, Michael Rider, is no stranger to Celine. Having spent a decade at the label under Slimane’s predecessor, Phoebe Philo, Rider’s return signals a potential shift back to the minimalist, luxe aesthetics that Philo-era Celine was known for.
Hedi Slimane’s Time at Celine: A Bold Creative Vision
Hedi Slimane joined Celine as its artistic director in January 2018, quickly making his mark on the brand with a series of bold and controversial moves. One of his first acts was to rebrand the house, dropping the accent on the "e" in "Céline" to return the logo to its 1960s roots. This rebranding drew parallels to his previous stint at Yves Saint Laurent, where he dropped the "Yves" to create Saint Laurent in 2012.
Slimane didn’t just rebrand; he reshaped the identity of Celine with his focus on a distinctly French heritage aesthetic. Drawing from the house’s archival pieces from the 1960s and 70s, Slimane introduced designs that harkened back to that era’s effortless Parisian chic. One standout was the Triomphe bag, a nod to the emblem introduced by founder Céline Vipiana in the 1970s. This piece would go on to become a new icon for the house, solidifying Slimane’s ability to bridge Celine’s storied past with modern fashion sensibilities.
But Slimane’s vision wasn’t without its detractors. His departure from Philo’s minimalist, quiet luxury designs towards a more rock-chic, youth-oriented aesthetic divided long-time fans of the brand. Despite this polarization, there’s no denying Slimane’s success at Celine. Under his leadership, Celine expanded into menswear, fragrance, and even make-up, with the recent launch of a lipstick line. The house saw its sales nearly triple, crossing the €2 billion mark in 2023.
Un Été Francais: Slimane’s Farewell to Celine
Before officially stepping down, Slimane surprised the fashion world with a digital runway show during Paris Fashion Week. Titled Un Été Francais, the show was a love letter to French it-girls of the 1960s. Models channeled the effortlessly cool aesthetics of icons like Françoise Hardy, Jane Birkin, and Juliette Gréco, embodying the essence of French fashion that Slimane had celebrated throughout his tenure at Celine. This final collection was a fitting farewell, marking the end of his legacy at the brand.
Michael Rider: A Return to Celine’s Roots?
Slimane’s departure leaves Celine with big shoes to fill, but the appointment of Michael Rider as his successor is being met with excitement. Rider is no stranger to Celine, having spent 10 years working alongside Phoebe Philo, helping to shape the brand during its most celebrated era. Philo’s Celine became a cult favorite, known for its minimalist, unfussy designs that appealed to women looking for luxury without the overt flashiness of other brands.
Rider’s deep knowledge of the house’s history and his intimate connection to its heritage make him an intriguing choice to take the reins. He began his career at Balenciaga under Nicolas Ghesquière, another heavyweight of the fashion world, and more recently, he served as the creative director for Polo Ralph Lauren. His varied experience in both European and American fashion houses, combined with his past at Celine, positions him well to usher in a new era for the brand.
In a statement following his appointment, Rider shared his admiration for Celine’s values and heritage: "Celine is a maison with values very close to my heart and a beautiful heritage to build on. I am honored to come back and shape the future of the maison together with the Celine team." His words suggest that we might see a return to Celine’s softer, more minimalist aesthetic that Philo pioneered, but with a modern twist.
A New Era for Celine and the Fashion Industry
The shake-up at Celine is just one of many creative director changes happening across the fashion industry. As rumors swirl that Slimane could be a candidate for the vacant creative director role at Chanel, the industry waits with bated breath to see what his next move will be. In the meantime, all eyes are on Rider as he prepares to take over at Celine in early 2024. Fashion enthusiasts are eager to see whether he will steer the brand back towards Philo’s luxe minimalism or chart a new course entirely.
Regardless of what the future holds, one thing is clear: Slimane’s legacy at Celine has left an indelible mark. His bold vision, rooted in French heritage and rock ‘n’ roll chic, transformed the brand and pushed it to new heights. Now, with Rider at the helm, Celine enters a new chapter — one that promises to blend tradition with modernity in exciting ways.
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