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Gucci’s Creative Shake-Up: Sabato De Sarno’s Surprising Departure
Ivy Vu
- Fashion Blogger -
The fashion world was rocked by unexpected news: Sabato De Sarno is stepping down as Gucci’s creative director. His exit, coming less than two years after his appointment, has left the industry buzzing with speculation. What went wrong? What’s next for Gucci? And what does this mean for the ever-evolving world of luxury fashion?
The fashion world was rocked by unexpected news: Sabato De Sarno is stepping down as Gucci’s creative director. His exit, coming less than two years after his appointment, has left the industry buzzing with speculation. What went wrong? What’s next for Gucci? And what does this mean for the ever-evolving world of luxury fashion?
A Short but Significant Tenure
When Gucci announced De Sarno as its new creative lead in early 2023, it marked a new direction for the brand. Having previously worked at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, and most recently as fashion director at Valentino, De Sarno was expected to bring a fresh, refined aesthetic to Gucci following Alessandro Michele’s departure.
Michele had spent seven years transforming Gucci into a maximalist dream, with eclectic designs, bold patterns, and a gender-fluid approach that defined a generation of fashion lovers. But by 2022, Gucci’s parent company, Kering, wanted a shift. They aimed for something more understated, commercial, and widely appealing—enter De Sarno.
His approach was a stark contrast to Michele’s flamboyant vision. De Sarno leaned into minimalism, focusing on clean silhouettes, muted colors, and wardrobe staples. His debut collection, unveiled in September 2023, was all about timeless sophistication, but reactions were mixed. While some praised the shift, others found it lacking the boldness that had made Gucci so exciting.
The Struggles Behind the Scenes
Gucci has been facing challenges in recent years. Under De Sarno’s leadership, the brand struggled to maintain the explosive growth it had seen in the previous decade. Luxury consumers’ preferences were changing, and the quiet luxury trend—popularized by brands like Bottega Veneta and The Row—was influencing the industry. However, Gucci’s sales numbers suggested that De Sarno’s vision wasn’t resonating as hoped.
In the third quarter of 2024, Gucci reported a significant 25% drop in revenue, falling to €1.64 billion. For Kering, this was a major blow. Investors and analysts started questioning whether the brand’s creative and business strategies were aligned. With such a sharp decline in sales, the pressure on De Sarno to deliver results became immense.
The Broader Industry Shift
Gucci isn’t the only luxury brand facing turbulence. The fashion industry is in a state of flux, with major houses reshuffling their leadership and rethinking their strategies. The Chinese market—long a key driver of luxury sales—has been cooling, and Western consumers have been more cautious with their spending amid economic uncertainty.
Other brands have been quick to adapt. Louis Vuitton, under Pharrell Williams’ creative leadership, has leaned into cultural moments and high-profile collaborations to keep the hype alive. Meanwhile, Balenciaga has been navigating its post-scandal recovery with a return to more classic silhouettes, and Prada has been thriving with a strong mix of nostalgia and modernity.
For Gucci, finding the right balance between artistic vision and commercial success has proven to be a tough challenge.
What’s Next for Gucci?
With De Sarno’s departure, Gucci finds itself at a crossroads. The upcoming Milan Fashion Week show on February 25, 2025, will go on as planned, but instead of De Sarno’s leadership, the in-house design team will present the collection. This is a crucial moment for the brand—will they continue in the direction he set, or will they take this as an opportunity to pivot yet again?
Kering has yet to announce who will take over as Gucci’s next creative director. The decision will be pivotal in determining Gucci’s future. Will they go for another minimalist designer? Will they bring in someone known for bold, statement-making fashion? Or could we see the return of a past Gucci visionary?
The Takeaway: A Sign of Changing Times
De Sarno’s quick exit from Gucci is more than just another fashion industry shake-up—it reflects the shifting demands of the luxury market. Consumers today want more than just beautiful clothes; they crave a story, cultural relevance, and a sense of exclusivity. In a world where trends come and go faster than ever, even the biggest brands can’t afford to misstep.
As Gucci prepares for its next chapter, one thing is clear: fashion is moving at an unprecedented pace, and only those who can evolve with it will thrive. The industry—and Gucci fans—will be eagerly watching to see what happens next.
