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Fendi Fall/Winter 2025: 100 Years of the Fendi Dynasty
Ivy Vu
- Fashion Blogger -
For nearly a century, spanning five generations and three visionary women at the helm, the Fendi family has built a legacy that continues to define Italian luxury. As the house approaches its centennial milestone, many expected Fendi 100: Lo Spirito del Tempo at Milan Fashion Week to be a grand homage to its archives. However, Silvia Venturini Fendi took a different approach—one that reimagines history through her own unique lens, blending reality with imagination to shape the future of the brand.
For nearly a century, spanning five generations and three visionary women at the helm, the Fendi family has built a legacy that continues to define Italian luxury. As the house approaches its centennial milestone, many expected Fendi 100: Lo Spirito del Tempo at Milan Fashion Week to be a grand homage to its archives. However, Silvia Venturini Fendi took a different approach—one that reimagines history through her own unique lens, blending reality with imagination to shape the future of the brand.
A Century of Heritage, A Family’s Legacy
Staged at Spazio Fendi, the collection was presented in a setting adorned with wooden-framed doorways, evoking the classic, romantic charm of Via Borgognona, where the five Fendi sisters inherited and expanded their family’s legacy. A particularly heartfelt tribute came in the form of knitted veiled beanies—an homage to Adele Fendi, the matriarch of the brand, who was often seen behind an elegant face veil.
Yet, contrary to expectations, Fendi 100: Lo Spirito del Tempo was not a nostalgic documentary of the brand’s heritage. “I didn’t want to spend too much time buried in physical archives,” Silvia stated. Instead, she sketched her own impressions of the past—melding fact with fantasy—to lay the foundation for Fendi’s future.
Material Mastery: The Timeless Language of Fendi
The collection blurred the lines between menswear and womenswear, allowing natural interactions between prints and textures. While womenswear took center stage, standout pieces in menswear—such as a lemon-yellow caban coat—held their own. Mohair-striped knits, rich tonal embroidery, and zigzag-patterned mink coats were all nods to Fendi’s unparalleled expertise in textile craftsmanship.
Fur, an integral part of the Fendi DNA, was reimagined in dramatic silhouettes. The opening look featured a refined faux mink coat worn as an evening dress, paired with striking open-toe heels. However, the true showstopper was a lambswool dress adorned with scattered crimson polka dots across a palette of soft caramel and brown—a testament to the house’s mastery in fur dyeing and fabrication.
Attention to detail defined the collection, evident in an elegant V-neck dress perfectly complemented by polished leather handbags and sleek patent pumps. Throughout the lineup, voluminous coats were paired with plush Baguette bags, and veiled beanies added an air of mystery. In a nostalgic yet forward-looking move, the legendary Spy Bag made its return, reinforcing its place in Fendi’s timeless lexicon.
Menswear: A Vision of Tailoring for the Future
For men, Silvia infused traditional Italian tailoring with contemporary twists. Asymmetrical tuxedo lapels and floor-length fur stoles redefined classic suiting, while vibrant hues like canary yellow and burnt orange breathed new life into formalwear. Intricate lace panels and sparkling embellishments disrupted the monotony of everyday menswear, proving that luxury and boldness can coexist.
Notably, shirts crafted from delicate lace were layered beneath glittering knitwear, while outerwear silhouettes featured rounded shoulders sculpted in pleated leather and thick tweed—a structured yet effortlessly chic expression of modern masculinity.
The Art of Balance: Softness Meets Structure
Fendi’s opulence extended beyond fur into softer, ethereal materials. Flowing satin gowns, delicate Chantilly lace, shimmering sequins, and feather accents exuded quiet grandeur. Meanwhile, checkered prints, Pequin-striped dresses, and quilted leather pieces referenced multiple decades—from the roaring ’20s to the bold styles of the ’50s, ’70s, and ’80s—without being tied to any single era.
Silvia skillfully hinted at history without recreating it verbatim. “I like the proof of time,” she mused. “I touched on different decades, but I refused to fixate on just one. The truth is, when something is beautiful, it will always be beautiful.”
In the end, Silvia Venturini Fendi delivered more than a retrospective—she crafted a vision of the house’s creative legacy, one that honors the past while remaining limitless in its future.
