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Peter Hawkings Leaves Tom Ford After Less Than a Year as Creative Director
HEIDI TRUONG
- Fashion Blogger -
Peter Hawkings, longtime collaborator of Tom Ford, exits his role as Creative Director at Tom Ford after less than a year. Discover the reasons behind his departure and what it means for the brand’s future in this evolving fashion landscape.
Peter Hawkings Leaves Tom Ford After Less Than a Year as Creative Director
In a surprising turn of events, Peter Hawkings, the Creative Director of Tom Ford, has announced his departure from the brand, just shy of a year in his role. Hawkings, who has been a key figure at Tom Ford for over two decades, leaves behind a significant legacy. His exit marks the end of an era, severing the final link between the brand and its original creative team under the legendary Tom Ford himself.
A Legacy of Creativity and Vision
Peter Hawkings’ journey with Tom Ford began long before his appointment as Creative Director. His relationship with Ford started in 1998 at Gucci, where the two forged a close working relationship. When Ford decided to launch his eponymous brand, Hawkings followed, rising through the ranks to eventually become the Senior Vice President of Menswear.
Hawkings officially took the reins as Creative Director in September 2023, debuting his first collection for the Spring/Summer 2024 season. His designs were celebrated for their deep exploration of sensuality and the distinctive identity of the Tom Ford brand. Drawing inspiration from Ford’s iconic 1990s work at Gucci, Hawkings crafted a collection that was both a tribute and a continuation of the brand’s aesthetic legacy.
In his second and final collection for Autumn/Winter 2024, Hawkings focused on female empowerment, showcasing naval coats with gold buttons, classic three-piece suits, and sequined dresses that epitomized the brand’s renowned tailoring and bold style. These collections solidified his reputation as a designer who understood and could elevate the brand's core values.
The Reasons Behind His Departure
The news of Hawkings’ departure comes amid a period of significant change for the Tom Ford brand, following its acquisition by Estée Lauder in 2023. After the sale, Estée Lauder handed over the fashion business operations to Zegna, a longtime manufacturing partner of Tom Ford. Zegna’s goal was to boost the brand’s presence in women’s fashion, a segment where it had lagged compared to its successes in menswear, fragrances, and accessories.
Hawkings, primarily known for his expertise in menswear, may have felt out of step with this new direction. Reports suggest that the shift in business strategy post-acquisition, particularly the increased focus on women’s fashion, might have prompted his decision to step down.
The Future of Tom Ford
As Tom Ford prepares for its Spring/Summer 2025 collection debut at Milan Fashion Week in September 2024, the brand faces the critical task of finding a successor who can navigate its evolving landscape. The new creative director will not only need to uphold the brand's high standards in menswear but also significantly expand its women’s fashion line, which has historically been a weaker segment.
The luxury fashion industry is currently experiencing a period of turbulence, with rising costs due to inflation and global instability affecting consumer spending. Brands are increasingly focused on cutting costs and streamlining operations. In this climate, some luxury houses, including Chanel and Givenchy, are operating without a creative director, relying on internal design teams to carry the load.
Tom Ford might adopt a similar approach in the short term, allowing its internal team to manage the design process while searching for the right leader to steer the brand into its next chapter.
What Lies Ahead
Peter Hawkings’ departure from Tom Ford signifies a pivotal moment for the brand. As it navigates this transition, the fashion world will be watching closely to see how it adapts to new leadership and the demands of a challenging market. The future of Tom Ford lies in the balance between honoring its rich heritage and embracing innovative strategies to remain a powerhouse in luxury fashion.
For now, the industry awaits the announcement of a new creative director who can lead Tom Ford with the same passion and vision that defined Hawkings’ tenure, ensuring the brand continues to thrive in the ever-changing landscape of luxury fashion.
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