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THE HIDDEN MAGIC OF WICKED: WHERE FASHION STEALS THE SPOTLIGHT.
Heidi Truong
- Fashion Blogger -
In the musical Wicked, fashion plays a pivotal role in bringing the reimagined world of Oz to life. Through intricate costume designs and creative styling, the production uses fashion to highlight character personalities, enhance storytelling, and immerse audiences in a fresh, captivating vision of this beloved universe.
In the musical Wicked, fashion plays a pivotal role in bringing the reimagined world of Oz to life. Through intricate costume designs and creative styling, the production uses fashion to highlight character personalities, enhance storytelling, and immerse audiences in a fresh, captivating vision of this beloved universe.
When we think of the world of Oz, most of us immediately picture the iconic scenes from the 1939 film The Wizard of Oz. However, with the release of Wicked, audiences have been treated to a completely fresh and surprising perspective on this magical kingdom.
Wicked is not just a simple story about witches; it is also a profound message about embracing differences and self-acceptance. Developed from Gregory Maguire’s 1995 novel and later adapted into the 2003 Broadway musical, the film carries a mission to retell The Wizard of Oz from an entirely new point of view.
BEHIND THE MAGIC: THE ENCHANTING FASHION OF THE MUSICAL WICKED
Paul Tazewell, the Tony Award-winning costume designer for the musical Hamilton and an Oscar nominee for West Side Story, brought a spirit of innovation and bold creativity to the Wicked project. Tasked with reimagining one of the most iconic fantasy worlds in storytelling, he sought to go beyond the familiar aesthetics of the Broadway musical, introducing a fresh vision that would translate the magical world of Oz into an immersive cinematic experience. Over the course of more than two years, Tazewell and his team engaged in painstaking research and experimentation, blending traditional craftsmanship with modern design techniques. The result was a collection of costumes that not only honored the beloved source material but also introduced a contemporary flair, making the designs feel both timeless and relevant to today’s audience.
A particularly demanding aspect of Tazewell’s work was designing for the two main characters—Elphaba (portrayed by Cynthia Erivo) and Glinda (portrayed by Ariana Grande). These costumes had to serve multiple purposes: reflecting the personalities of the characters, signaling their growth over the course of the story, and visually distinguishing the contrasts and complexities of their relationship. For Elphaba, the outfits capture her transformation from a misunderstood outcast to a powerful and self-assured figure, incorporating darker tones and structured designs that evolve as her character gains confidence. In contrast, Glinda’s wardrobe is characterized by lighter, ethereal elements, symbolizing her charisma and journey towards self-awareness.
Source: NBC UNIVERSAL
GLINDA AND THE POWERFUL PINK
For Glinda, the Good Witch of the South, Paul Tazewell crafted a delicate dialogue between classic imagery and modern style.
Drawing inspiration from Billie Burke’s iconic portrayal of Glinda in the 1939 film The Wizard of Oz, Paul Tazewell approached the design of Glinda’s costumes with both reverence for tradition and a desire for innovation. Central to his vision was the choice of pink, which he described as “a metaphor for things that float, the brilliance of bubbles, and a sense of buoyancy.” This color choice goes beyond mere aesthetics; it serves as a storytelling device that embodies Glinda’s purity, warmth, and uplifting presence. The soft and radiant hues of pink reflect her role as a beacon of hope and kindness, visually distinguishing her from the darker, more dramatic tones of other characters like Elphaba.
One of the most critical pieces in Glinda’s wardrobe is her iconic bubble dress, which has long been associated with her character. For Tazewell, reimagining this legendary costume was both a challenge and an opportunity to merge classic elements with modern design sensibilities. To achieve this, he experimented with innovative fabrics, textures, and embellishments that would capture the ethereal, almost weightless quality of Glinda’s persona. The dress features layers of delicate tulle, shimmering sequins, and intricate embroidery, creating a design that feels timeless yet contemporary. The flowing silhouette is designed to move gracefully, enhancing the sense of lightness and magic that defines Glinda’s character.
To bring these designs to life, Tazewell collaborated closely with a team of skilled artisans who painstakingly handcrafted each element, from the intricate beadwork to the custom dyeing of fabrics. The result is a wardrobe that not only honors Glinda’s enduring legacy but also offers a fresh and compelling take on her character for a new generation of audiences.
Paul also revealed that Ariana Grande, who plays Glinda, was deeply involved in refining the intricate details during costume fittings. More than just an actress, Grande became a co-creator in the process, contributing valuable insights and suggestions that helped shape a more nuanced and modern portrayal of Glinda. This collaborative effort resulted in a character who is not only radiant and graceful but also layered with complexity, moving beyond traditional depictions to resonate with contemporary audiences. This meticulous attention to detail underscores the transformative power of costume design in storytelling, with Glinda’s pink-dominated aesthetic serving as a visual shorthand for her positivity, grace, and inner strength.
ELPHABA AND THE BEAUTY OF BEING DIFFERENT
The benefits of virtual try-on technology extend beyond customer satisfaction. Research shows it can lead to a notable decrease in return rates and an increase in conversions.
For instance, Yoox Net-a-Porter (YNAP) piloted Deepgears’ virtual try-on technology on 90 styles from its in-house brand Mr P, sold on its men’s platform Mr Porter. The results were impressive: a 25% reduction in return rates and a 28% increase in conversions for products offering the digital mannequin option.
Similarly, Perfect Corp’s trends report highlighted a 2.5x increase in sales conversions for brands leveraging virtual try-on technology. This underscores how integrating digital tools can directly impact the bottom line, providing an edge in a competitive market.
For Elphaba, Paul Tazewell aimed to break free from stereotypes of a character perceived as unattractive due to her green skin. Instead, he focused on crafting a unique, sculptural style with angular lines that reflect her strength and resilience. “It was crucial to showcase Cynthia’s beauty, especially since her character is marginalized later in the story,” he explained.
Intricate details, such as dresses handcrafted with pleating techniques and sharp, angular designs inspired by the shape of a witch’s hat, were carefully chosen to emphasize Elphaba’s power and individuality. Shoulder lines and clothing details were meticulously designed to reflect her personality—edgy, sharp, and evocative of the pointed silhouette of a witch’s hat. These elements not only highlight her distinctive appearance but also celebrate the beauty of her difference, aligning perfectly with the character’s journey of self-acceptance and empowerment.
Paul Tazewell revealed that the team experimented with up to six different designs for Elphaba’s hat. Some versions drew inspiration from Japanese origami, with intricate folding techniques, while others focused on emphasizing angular, sculptural lines. Ultimately, Tazewell selected a design that would evoke the greatest sense of confidence for Cynthia Erivo, ensuring the hat not only complemented the character but also empowered the actress portraying her.
Valentino’s Digital Transformation
Valentino’s Digital Transformation
In addition, Tazewell deliberately included a subtle yet meaningful detail in the costume designs for Wicked: both main characters share a similar shoulder-line motif in their outfits. “The shoulders are the most powerful way to represent the two characters,” he explained.
At the start of the film, Glinda is styled with sharply pointed shoulders, a detail that later finds its reflection in Elphaba’s costumes. This intentional parallel signifies that beneath their outward differences in appearance and personality, Glinda and Elphaba share a profound connection. Their mirrored shoulder designs serve as a visual metaphor for their intertwined fates and mutual influence, emphasizing that they are not as disparate as they might seem.
In the world of Wicked, every stitch, costume detail, and backdrop carries a profound story, conveying themes of individuality, courage, and friendship. Meticulously crafted with creativity and precision, the fashion in Wicked is set to leave a lasting impression as the beloved Broadway production transitions to the big screen.
With a star-studded cast, including Cynthia Erivo and Ariana Grande, under the direction of the talented Jon M. Chu, Wicked promises to be an unmissable cinematic experience. It invites audiences to rediscover one of the most cherished tales from the world of Oz, reimagined through a fresh and captivating lens.
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