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Alessandro Michele’s Glorious Comeback: A New Era for Valentino Unveiled
HEIDI TRUONG
- Fashion Blogger -
Alessandro Michele’s triumphant return to fashion as creative director of Valentino dazzled at Paris Fashion Week SS25. Discover how Michele's new era for Valentino blends Old Hollywood glamour with his signature eccentricity, setting the stage for a red-carpet revolution.
After a two-year hiatus from the fashion world, Alessandro Michele made a grand return, debuting as creative director for Valentino at the Spring/Summer 2025 Paris Fashion Week. Marking a new and glamorous era for the Roman couture house, Michele’s collection signified not only a new chapter for the designer but also an exciting evolution for the Valentino brand, which has been under the creative direction of Pierpaolo Piccioli for years. As the fashion world eagerly awaited Michele’s first show, the anticipation was met with a spectacle that mixed his signature eclecticism with Valentino’s timeless elegance.
As guests entered the dimly lit room, they were immediately struck by the atmosphere. The setting resembled an abandoned mansion, draped in mystery and history, with furniture covered in dust sheets and broken mirrors scattered across the floor. These creative elements felt symbolic of Michele’s own return, as if he were inviting the fashion world back into the creative house he had temporarily left behind. The set was a dramatic stage for the next phase of his career, and it reflected the tension and excitement of his highly anticipated comeback.
Michele’s New Vision for Valentino
Michele’s debut collection for Valentino was nothing short of breathtaking. While he carried his signature aesthetic from his time at Gucci — playful, maximalist, and eccentric — there was an added layer of maturity and refinement. This was a more grown-up Michele, still leaning into his love for exuberant fashion but with an elevated elegance that perfectly aligned with Valentino’s rich heritage.
From the first look, it was clear that Michele’s signature more-is-more approach was still very much alive. Models walked down the runway in looks that combined multiple prints, layers of luxurious fabrics, and over-the-top embellishments. There were playful nods to his past work, like quirky clutch bags that resembled retro cat figurines, the kind you might find on your grandmother’s mantelpiece. However, there was a balance — a sophisticated take on his usual eccentricity, as if Valentino's influence had tempered his flamboyance with grace and glamour.
Old Hollywood Glamour Meets Michele’s Eccentricity
Michele brought a touch of Old Hollywood to the runway, with models dressed as starlets from the golden era of film. Floor-length gowns trimmed with feathers, fur stoles, and statement jewels sparkled under the lights, exuding classic movie-star elegance. Yet, even in the most glamorous of gowns, Michele’s distinct style was apparent. Ruffles, lace tights, and layers of pearls added a touch of whimsy, reimagined in a way that honored Valentino’s history while staying true to Michele’s creative identity.
The show itself had an air of romantic melancholy. The models moved slowly, their elegant silhouettes reflected in the cracked mirrors lining the floor. Paired with the haunting soundtrack of strings and vocals, the ambiance created a sense of nostalgia — a longing for a past era but with a modern twist. This delicate balance between old and new, between Michele’s boldness and Valentino’s classic elegance, defined the collection.
A Star-Studded Front Row: The Return of Michele’s Muses
No Alessandro Michele runway show would be complete without his cadre of celebrity muses, and this Valentino debut was no exception. Harry Styles, Florence Welch, Elton John, Karen Elson, and Jared Leto were all seated front row, embodying the unmistakable camaraderie that has always defined Michele’s fashion universe. The presence of these stars signaled a reunion of sorts, a return to form for Michele’s artistic circle, who have followed him from his Gucci days and now into his Valentino era.
Beyond being a gathering of Michele’s famous supporters, the star-studded front row represented the designer’s commitment to making Valentino a red-carpet mainstay. Valentino has long been synonymous with the Oscars, Cannes, and Venice Film Festivals, and Michele’s influence will likely push the brand even further into the spotlight during the upcoming awards season. We can expect to see these muses, and many others, draped in ‘New Valentino’ designs on future red carpets, bringing Michele’s artistic vision to the world stage.
Michele’s Glorious Return to Fashion’s Main Stage
For Alessandro Michele, this show was more than just a debut — it was a rebirth. After stepping away from Gucci, many wondered what his next move would be, and his new role at Valentino provided the perfect stage for his creativity to flourish. The collection not only reflected Michele’s unique artistic sensibilities but also paid homage to Valentino’s legacy of timeless glamour. It was a celebration of fashion as art, of history intertwined with modernity, and of a designer who continues to push boundaries.
What’s clear from this debut is that Michele’s vision for Valentino is bold, glamorous, and unafraid of taking risks. As the fashion world watches this new chapter unfold, there’s no doubt that Alessandro Michele’s reign at Valentino will be one to remember.
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